Ever dealt with the frustrating decor experience of paint bleeding out onto ceilings or other edges, ruining all your careful application efforts? \nSharp lines are one of the key elements of a flawless wall finish, but it’s all too easy for paint to bleed through onto ceilings and adjacent walls. Whether you’re painting your first wall or your twentieth (well done, you pro), learn how to create crisp lines before kicking off your next decorating project. \nFollow the steps below to avoid paint bleeding.\nWhat you’ll need\n
Before you get going, there's a few things you'll need.\nMasking tape (yep, this trusty tool will be your best friend in the process - read more about \npainters masking tape\n)\n\nPaint \n\nBrushes \nA steady hand

(Tip: Though we can't help to steady your hands, both our paints and our painting tools have been developed with ease in mind. So although we're a touch biased, we'd recommend our own products for the best results.)\n

How to do it\n
Step 1: Reach for that masking tape \n Once you’ve suitably \nprepped your walls for painting\n start by applying masking tape over any spots you want to protect, along the edges of the ceiling and where the skirting board meets the wall (discover \nhow to paint skirting boards here\n).\nStep 2: Paint over the edges \nThe secret to crisp, clean lines: paint over the edge of your masking tape with the existing colour of the wall (or whatever surface you’re painting). By brushing over the edge of the tape, you’re effectively sealing the paint, and any paint that bleeds through will match the existing colour. \nAllow this coat of paint to dry. Read our \nhow to paint a wall\n guide for some top painting tips.\nStep 3: Paint your second coat in the desired new colour \n When the first layer of paint is dry, start painting your second (new) colour. Using your paintbrush, make sure that the paint overlaps the tape line. \nStep 4: Remove and reveal \nWhile your freshly-painted coat is still wet, it’s time for the big reveal. Carefully remove tape by pulling it towards you at a 90-degree angle. \nIf you’ve followed all the steps above, you should be faced with a sharp, clean line with zero bleed-through. \n--\nUse this technique on edges, corners or where the wall meets the ceiling. Once you’ve mastered how to paint clean lines… you’re pretty far along on your decorating journey. 

If you want to become a \ntrue\n wallpapering maestro, start by learning how to prepare a room for wallpaper like an expert. Check out our \nwallpapering for beginners guide\n to know what mistakes to look out for and how to fix then. Or master the prep steps and you’re halfway there on your journey to a smooth and professionally papered finish. As tempting as it may be to dive right into the actual application, trust us, the little extra time investment will be so worth it.
\nHow to prepare walls for wallpaper: what you’ll need \nDust sheets\nTape and drape\nPaste brush \nSugar soap\nSponge, gloves and a bucket \nStripping knife\nWall filler and filling knife\nSandpaper \nProtective mask and safety glasses\n\nShop our contemporary wallpaper\n

How to prepare walls for wallpaper: how to set up \n
Got everything together? Time to get your working space ready: \nGive yourselves a little more space to work by ridding the room of as many items and as much furniture as you can. If it’s too heavy (or you just don’t have anywhere else to move it), scoot it over to the middle of the room and cover with dust sheets. \nMeasure the room and work out how much wallpaper you’ll actually need. Get a little extra (we’d recommend 10% extra) to allow for wastage. \nTime to strip off any old wallpaper and paint. For wallpaper, we’d recommend using a good old stripping knife to start with. Carefully strip off sections of wallpaper, taking care not to damage the wall behind. If you’re struggling, soften up old wallpaper with a sponge dipped in hot water for easier removal. If you’re \nreally\n struggling, invest in (or borrow) a steam wallpaper stripper and get the job done a lot more quickly (learn \nhow remove wallpaper with a steamer and how to use a wallpaper removal steamer here\n). \nWant to get rid of old, peeling paint? Get a smooth finish by sanding away any flakes or patches with a fine piece of sandpaper. \nOnce your surfaces are free of wallpaper and paint, take a closer look for any cracks in the walls. Fill in any holes or gaps with filler for an even surface. Wait for the filler to dry before sanding smooth with a piece of fine sandpaper. \nPut on a pair of rubber gloves and prepare to scrub. Clean all surfaces that are to be papered with a sugar soap and water solution. Wipe away soap traces with a damp and clean sponge and leave to dry overnight. \nWhat to consider when preparing walls for wallpaper\n
It’s worth mentioning: \nStripping your walls is messy business. Make sure your room is well-ventilated and use a protective mask if you have any suspicions about the presence of lead under the surface.\nWe know - prep work can result in quite a bit of a mess. Clear everything up before you start hanging wallpaper for a clean working space (read more on \nwhere to start with wallpapering here\n). \n--\nThere you have it - a fully prepped room that’s ready for your handywork. Take a deep breath and prepare to paper... it's time to learn \nhow to put up wallpaper and how to wallpaper a feature wall\n. Are you using \nself-adhesive wallpaper\n? Check out our t\nips on how to apply self-adhesive wallpaper\n to a wall and \neverything you need to know about self-adhesive\n.\n\n--\nAnd if you are working the other way around and want to know if \nyou can paint over wallpaper\n, then read our guide on \nhow to paint over wallpaper\n.

As they say: fail to prepare and you prepare to fail. When it comes to painting walls, this couldn’t be any truer. Learn how to prep a room for painting and you’re guaranteed a much smoother finish. Investing a little more time and care at the start is more than worth it.\nGet one step closer in your quest to paint like a pro by getting to grips with how to prepare a room for painting, and the prep required for painting different internal surfaces. Read on for our guide on how to do it and what to watch out for.\nWhat you'll need to prep your walls for painting\nFirst, get your \npreparation tools\n together. You’ll need: \nSoap \nSponge, gloves, and a bucket \nStripping knife \nFiller and filling knife\nProtective sheets \nSandpaper\n

How to prepare a room for painting\nGot everything you need? Get started with the following steps: \n1. Make space\nRemove as much of your furniture as you can. If it’s too heavy to lug too far, move it to the centre of the room and cover it up with our protective and eco-friendly sheets so you can focus on transforming your space.\n2. Inspect your walls for any damage\nStart by inspecting your walls carefully. Spot any holes and cracks? You'll want to fill those in to ensure the wall has an even surface.\n3. If there is damage, repair it\nClean any gaps with soapy water (and rinse) before filling them in carefully. Push filler in carefully using your filling knife until you’re satisfied with the evenness. \nLeave to dry before smoothing down with sandpaper.\n4. Sand\nTackle any flaky plaster or peeling paint by sanding with fine sandpaper. For the most beautiful finish, you want your paint surface to be as smooth and even as possible.\n5. Clean your walls\nMake sure your walls are clean before paint application. Pop your gloves on and clean surfaces using soap and water.\nNote: \ndo not use sugar soap\n6. Let the walls dry\nGive the walls a final wipe down with a damp sponge to get rid of any traces of soap and leave to dry (thoroughly).\n7. Clean up any mess\nCreated a bit of a mess during all your prep work? It happens. Clean it all up to give yourselves ample working space. \n8. You're ready to paint!\nYou're all prepped. Time for the fun part! \nLearn how to paint a wall\n by reading our how-to guide. 

Top tips for prepping different wall surfaces for painting\nHow to prepare new plaster for painting\nFresh plaster is porous. Porous surfaces are thirsty surfaces, and if you paint onto porous surfaces without any prior treatment, then the first coat of paint will get heavily absorbed (potentially unevenly), requiring more paint and more work to get a consistent finish.\nFor fresh plaster, we always recommend that you use a primer before you start your paint job. Alternatively, you can use a “mist coat” as the first coat for your wall.\nA mist coat can be prepared by taking Lick paint and diluting it by 30% (so for every 700ml of Lick paint, you would add 300ml of water). The mist coat can then be applied and left to dry over a couple of hours, after which you'll be ready to crack on with painting your walls with 2 coats of undiluted paint.\nHow to prepare a gloss/ high sheen surface for painting\nAs gloss/ sheen can be a really difficult surface for a multi-surface paint like ours to adhere to, we’d recommend:\nA \nreally\n thorough sand so that none of the sheen/ gloss is left\nClear away any dust with a warm, wet cloth and let this dry\nAs our paint is self-priming, you can then paint over
\nHow to prepare walls after removing wallpaper\nWorking on a previously wallpapered surface? Peel-able wallpaper is easy to get rid off (the hint is in the name), but wallpaper hung with paste can be slightly trickier to remove. Take it off carefully using a stripping knife, taking extra care not to damage the plaster behind.\nIf a few scraps of wallpaper are holding on for dear life, soak with a sponge and hot water to soften before stripping. Finish off by sanding lightly with a fresh piece of sandpaper.\nRead our article on \nhow to paint over wallpaper\n for more information.\nHow to prepare a brick wall surface for painting\nYou can use our Interior paint for a brick surface.\nJust like freshly plastered walls, masonry can be porous and therefore will soak up paint on the first application and could lead to an uneven finish and peeling if not sealed.\nYou'll need to apply a mist coat by thinning some of the paint with 70% water (i.e. 7 part water for every 3 parts paint).\nDo one coat in the mist coat and allow it to dry before painting two coats with the rest of the undiluted paint.\nIf you would prefer to use a primer paint rather than a mist coat, we recommend using Zinsser 1-2-3 Bulls Eye Primer Sealer as a high-quality primer.\n

FAQs\nOther than mentally preparing yourself for the task ahead, there are a few other things to bear in mind. Here are some FAQs:\nDo I \nneed\n to wash walls before I paint them?\nIt's very important to give your walls a thorough clean before paint application. Why? Because any grease, grime, cobwebs, dust, and stains on your walls can prevent your paint from adhering to them.\nHow do I calculate how much paint I'll need for my walls?\nFigure out how much paint you’ll need to buy. Start by measuring the length and height of each wall. Next, multiply both numbers to get the square footage. Take away the square footage of any door and windows that don’t need painting and there you have it - the amount of paint you’ll need. Oh, and it’s always a good idea to order extra paint to deal with future scuff marks or stains.\nWhat tools do I need to apply paint to a wall? \nAlthough a paint roller is the best application tool for larger surfaces, invest in a couple of smaller brushes to reach trickier areas, such as around window frames and behind radiators. Don’t forget to get the trusty masking tape you’ll need to protect your skirting boards and switches from splatters. Read our tips on \nhow to use masking tape when decorating\n and check out all \nthe tools you need to paint a room\n.\nNow for the actual painting itself… check out our guide on \nhow to paint a wall\n, or if you fancy trying wallpaper, learn \nwhere to start with hanging wallpaper here\n.

Liven up the exterior of your home with a fresh lick of window frame paint. \nWindow frames are usually made of wood so you’ve got a good base to play with, although the task does require a fair bit of attention to detail. You may have already learnt \nhow to prep walls for painting\n and \nhow to paint a wall\n. While window frame painting can be slightly tougher than painting walls and ceilings, it’s definitely possible for a DIY painter to nail the job with a little bit of know-how. \nStart by checking out the window frame painting process that’ll make your windows pop: \nPainting window frames: what you’ll need \n
First thing's first - tools.\n\nProtective dust sheet\n\n\nTape and drape\n\n\nMasking tape\n (learn how to use \npainters masking tape here\n)\nPrimer \nFiller \nSandpaper\nLick paint \nPaintbrush - either an angled brush or a sash brush should do the trick\nScraper\n

How to prep and prime your window\n
Invest in a bit of time into prep and you’re guaranteed a better finish: \nStart by putting a canvas sheet down in front of your window. This should catch any scraps of paint that fall to the ground and save you precious time in the post-paint cleanup stage. \nScrape off any old paint using your trusty scraper. It’s not a difficult tool to use; just dig the edge into the paint and push down into the frame to scrape. Careful not to scratch the pane itself. Oh and don’t worry if your surface isn’t free from all traces of paint - as long as you get the majority of it. \nInspect for any holes or cracks. Fill in any gaps you spot so you have a flat and smooth surface to paint over. \nSand down the window frame and any gritty patches with sandpaper, using long and sweeping strokes. This helps create a smooth surface to work on and can also help your paint stick better. Warning: don’t skip this step or you’ll end up with a bumpy finish. \nAffix some masking take around the edges of the frame to create a clear divide between your coat of paint and the wall. Cover up any hinges with tape to save them from paint splatters. \nTime to prime what you’ve just scraped and sanded. Using a small angled paintbrush, apply the primer in long, sweeping strokes. An angled brush gives you better access to all the little nooks and crannies and ensures that all areas properly primed. Leave the primer to dry for a few hours. \n(Tip: After the scraping and sanding step, make sure you clean thoroughly to get rid of any debris. Otherwise, you’ll get bits of sawdust and paint particles interfering with your paint.)\nPainting window frames: how to do it\n
Time to get on to the application… \nStart by loading a clean angled brush with paint. Apply in long strokes to achieve a well-blended and even finish.  \nWorking on casement windows? Start with the frame and finish with the sill. If you’re painting sash windows, start by painting the bottom frame and wait for it to dry. Once dry, move the second frame down and repeat the process. Wait for the first coat to dry before applying a second coat. \nRemove the masking tape gently while the paint is still damp. Take extra care not to damage the freshly painted surface. \nLeave your newly spruced up window frame to dry overnight. \n--\nYour work here is done. Take a step back to admire your clean-as-a-whistle handywork.

Bought yourself a roll of gorgeous \nwallpaper\n and still procrastinating on the actual hanging process? We’ve all been there. The good news? Hanging wallpaper isn’t quite as complicated as you might think. It’s time to stop nervously eyeing up those rolls you got and start to hang. Follow our step-by-step guide and learn how to prep a wall for wallpapering, how to hang up wallpaper like a pro, and how to fix common wallpapering mistakes.\nThe tools you need for wallpapering\nStart by gathering the wallpapering tools:\nA roll (or three, depending on the space) of wallpaper\nWallpaper paste/ adhesive (opt for one that’s already mixed to save time) \nAn application wallpaper brush (and a smaller wallpaper brush for wallpapering corners)\nA clean cloth or two (to smooth out any wrinkles or air bubbles) \nA sharp stripping knife if you need to remove any scraps of old wallpaper (get a \nwallpaper removal steamer\n if you’ve got lots to remove) \nSharp scissors (steer clear of old and dull blades to avoid rips when trimming wallpaper edges)\nFiller to deal with any holes or gaps\nA piece of sandpaper to sand down any bumpy bits\nPlumb line measuring tool. Get things straight with this handy little tool.  \nTape measure and a pencil to work out where to trim \nStepladder to get to those hard-to-reach nooks and crannies  \nProtective \ndust sheets\n for your flooring and furnishing or \nTape and Drape\n\nProtective mask and safety glasses. Protect your eyes from dust and your lungs from paste fumes by covering them up.\n(Tip: Always allow for a little extra wallpaper - around 10% - to make sure you have enough in case of the odd mistake).

How to prepare walls for wallpapering\nOnce you’ve collected the above, kick off with the prep steps: \nRemove any existing wallpaper (yes, even the tiniest of scraps) with a stripping knife, taking care not to damage the plaster behind. Struggling with a few stubborn strips? Soak with hot water and a sponge to loosen up before stripping away. \nInspect your walls for any cracks or gaps. Get rid of any holes with a filler and sandpaper down for an even finish.\nUnscrew any fixings. \nScrub your walls with warm soapy water and a clean sponge to get rid of any grease or grime before you start to hang wallpaper. Dirt can make it more difficult for wallpaper to stick and it can also lead to a bumpy look.  Leave to dry overnight before you get to hanging.\n

How to hang wallpaper\nThe moment you’ve been waiting for - it’s time to get stuck in:\nStep 1: measure your walls\nPick an area of the wall with no switches or sockets and measure the length. Add 20 centimetres for leeway and use your tape measure to mark the back of the paper where you need to cut. Fold wallpaper over on itself and cut your first strip. \nStep 2: mark your wall for guidance\nUsing your plumb line measuring tool, mark a vertical line on the wall near, right next to where the strip should go. You’ll use this line as a guide when hanging the first strip. \nStep 3: apply your wallpaper paste\nTime for the application process. Deep breaths. Use your brush to apply the wallpaper paste to the surface in even layers. We’d recommend starting at the top and working your way down. Perch on your stepladder to reach the ceiling if you need to. \nStep 4: position your wallpaper\nOnce you’ve pasted the wall, position your wallpaper to check alignment. If it all looks straight, apply your first strip to the top and start to smooth it out from the centre to the edges using a clean cloth.\nTop tip:\n \nno need to panic if you’re not happy with the positioning. Lick wallpaper is designed for easy removal so you can reposition and replace to your heart’s desire. \nStep 5: trim and tidy\nTrim off any excess wallpaper using your knife and ruler. Papering around switches and sockets? Cover them up with a wallpaper strip and use your knife to cut around them to avoid sloppy edges.\nStep 6: smooth\nSmooth the seams as you go for the best finish. Always smooth out from the centre of the strip to avoid air bubbles. \nTop tip\n: \nbe gentle. Don’t put too much pressure on it or the paste may squeeze out from the edges.\nStep 7: repeat!\nRepeat this process for the entire wall.\nStep 8: sit back and relax\nAnd, you’re done! Step back and admire your masterpiece. You did that.

Things to watch out for when wallpapering\nWe’ve put together a list of solutions for some of the most common wallpapering mistakes. But first, the most essential wallpapering tip: Take. Your. Time. Rushing to finish the job is sure to result in a blunder or three.\nHow do I flatten wallpaper seams? \nWallpaper edges curling up at the seam (aka curled seams) could be the result of not applying enough adhesive when pasting. To fix it, start by dampening the area with warm water. Carefully lift the edge and apply wallpaper adhesive under it. Gently flatten the seam using light pressure and a soft cloth. Wipe away any excess glue - and you’re all set. \nHow do I get rid of bubbles when wallpapering?\nIf you spot bubbles or blisters post-application, don’t stress. Fix it by arming yourself with the right wallpaper tools: a sharp knife, a glue injector and seam wallpaper paste/ adhesive. \nCut a small slit along the side of the air bubble using your utility knife. \nInsert the glue injector into the slit and inject a bit of seam adhesive inside. \nCarefully press out any excess and wipe it off. \nUse a soft, clean cloth to gently flatten the bubble.  \nThe best way to stop your wallpaper from bubbling in the first place? Careful prevention at the application stage. Hang each strip slowly and steadily. Smooth out any bumps that you spot along the way, no matter how tiny they are. Once you’ve hung each strip up, smooth from the centre using a soft, clean cloth and apply light pressure.\nWhy is my wallpaper not sticking?\nFor peeling edges, sand down the wall underneath the peeling edge and reapply using a generous amount of wallpaper paste. If your wallpaper edges keep peeling, or your entire wallpaper is not sticking, it might be time to re-evaluate the wallpaper paste you’re using.\nHow do I get rid of wallpaper streaks?\nWipe away all excess paste residue from your wallpaper during the application or you could be left with a streaky finish. Wipe as you go or use a mild soapy mixture to wipe away dried-up streaks. \nHow do I fix tears or rips to wallpaper whilst trimming?\nAvoid making a mistake before you even get your strips up by steering clear of dull blades for wallpaper trimming. Use a sharp-bladed knife or pair of scissors to trim your wallpaper. \nWhy are stains showing through my wallpaper?\nSome wallpapers (not Lick wallpapers - shameless plug) are so thin that they’re almost semi-transparent, making it easy to see any unsightly stains and dark patches on the wall. If you’re working with a thinner wallpaper, avoid this issue by priming before you hang. If the wall is in truly terrible shape, consider using lining paper before hanging your wallpaper.
\nHow do I calculate how much wallpaper I need?\nTo work out how much wallpaper you'll need, first calculate how many 'panels' of wallpaper you'll need according to the width of the room (i.e. if the wall is 5m in width, and the wallpaper is 1m in width = you'll need 5 'panels'). Then get the length of the room to see how many panels you'll get from each roll. Just be mindful if papering around windows, as you'll need to take those measurements out of the equation. We'd also recommend getting about 10% extra, just in case.

How do I wallpaper around a corner?\nThe hardest bit about hanging wallpaper is getting the corners to look perfect. Sadly, you can’t just push the paper into the corner and expect it to look great. Still, you can learn the techniques and approaches that professionals use for a seamless finish. It’ll be a little tricky at first - but with the right know-how, you’re up for the challenge. First thing's first; are you papering inside corners, or outside corners?\nCan you wrap wallpaper around an inside corner? \nYes. Here’s what you need to know: \nMeasure the length of wallpaper that you’ll need and add an extra couple of centimetres in width before cutting. \nUse your brush to get the wallpaper paste into the corners. \nProceed to hang wallpaper with care from top to bottom, making sure to align the pattern to the previous strip. \nGently press the wallpaper strip into the corner using a small brush. \nCarefully press the overlap onto the next wall so it forms a new overlap for the next strip. \nSmooth your strip from the centre using a soft, clean cloth.\nWhen hanging wallpaper on outside corners, follow this process: \nMeasure the length and allow for an extra couple of inches (for the overlap) before cutting. \nApply paste using your handy little brush. \nHang the wallpaper using the same process as above, taking care to meet the edges of the last strip you’ve applied. \nWrap the piece around the outside corner.\nCreate a smooth edge by adding your next strip to the other side of the wall.\nNow you know everything you need to know to hang wallpaper! Master these steps and you’re one step closer to becoming a professional paperhanger. \n(Yes, that’s a thing.)

The secret to achieving a flawless finish for your paint job isn’t just in the technique; you need to arm yourself with the best tools if you want to paint walls that wow. \nFrom brushes to paint rollers, prepare yourself for a professional paint project by gathering the tools below.\nTools for the prep\nDon’t underestimate the importance of careful prep for a flawless paint finish. Here’s what you need to get to prep like a pro: \nA sharp stripping knife. Painting on a surface with scraps of old wallpaper? Take it off carefully with a stripping knife, taking care to avoid the plaster.\nA piece of fine sandpaper to sand down any bumps or lumps. Make sure your painting surface is as smooth as possible before application. \nSoap, sponge, gloves and a bucket. Get your surfaces ready by sponging them down with a mixture of warm water and trusty soap. Greasy surfaces are no good for painting - a good washing up liquid can be particularly good. Rinse off the soap after cleaning, and leave to dry overnight before getting started. \nProtect skirting boards and switches from splodges by covering them with masking tape (discover \nhow to use painter's masking tape when decorating\n).\nWall filler and a filling knife to tackle any holes and gaps and create a smooth working surface.\nSand down any uneven bits with a piece of fine sandpaper. Prepare for things to get a little dusty with this tool so keep a hoover handy.  \nProtective \ndecorators dust sheets\n to save your flooring and furniture. Opt for canvas for ultimate protection.\n

Tools for the application\nAll prepped and ready to go? Here’s what you need to get on with the application: \nPrimer paint for a solid base and a more intense and longer-lasting finish. Make sure you give your coat of primer enough time to dry before applying any colour. \nTip: Using Lick paint? Save time and money by skipping the primer - our paint is designed to ensure you just need a few coats with no need for a primer on most surfaces.\nA tin of Lick paint (okay, you can get any brand you like).\nPaintbrush. In the paintbrush vs. paint roller debate; we always say, get both. Brushes are much better for tackling edges and corners, as well as dealing with tricky areas such as behind radiators or around frames. \nPaint roller. Rollers are the best application tools for central surface areas. Trust us, you’ll save yourselves a lot of time by investing in a good paint roller rather than attempting an entire room with a brush. \nA paint roller extension pole if you are painting a high ceiling and need some help reaching it.\nSafety glasses and mask. Protect yourself from fumes and dust by getting your painting gear on. Oh, and we would also recommend putting on your least favourite clothes for the task. \n

Once you’ve gathered all the above, you’re ready to go. Take a deep breath and reach for that brush. It’s time to start the \npainting process\n...\n

Tools you'll need\n
Gather these \nwallpaper tools\n before you get started:\nSmaller wallpaper brush for nooks and crannies \nWallpaper paste/ adhesive\nWallpaper (well, that would help) \nMeasuring tool \nSharp scissors\nSoft, clean cloth for smoothing \n\nBest way to approach wallpapering corners \n
First thing's first; are you papering inside corners, or outside corners?\n\nPapering \ninside\n corners? Here’s what you need to know: \nMeasure the length of wallpaper that you’ll need and add an extra couple of centimetres in width before cutting. \nUse your brush to get the wallpaper paste into corners. \nProceed to hang wallpaper with care from top to bottom, making sure to align the pattern to the previous strip. \nGently press the wallpaper strip into the corner using a small brush. \nCarefully press the overlap onto the next wall so it forms a new overlap for the next strip. \nSmooth your strip from the centre using a soft, clean cloth.
\nWhen hanging wallpaper on \noutside\n corners, follow this process: \nMeasure the length and allow for an extra couple of inches (for the overlap) before cutting. \nApply paste using your handy little brush. \nHang the wallpaper using the same process as above, taking care to meet the edges of the last strip you’ve applied. \nWrap the piece around the outside corner.\nCreate a smooth edge by adding your next strip to the other side of the wall.
\nThings to remember\n
Keep smoothing as you go for the best finish. Always smooth out from the centre of the strip to avoid air bubbles.\nSmooth wallpaper surfaces gently. Don’t put too much pressure on it or the paste may squeeze out from the corners.\nDeal with any residue paste before it dries by cleaning it up with a natural sponge as you work.  \nTry not to rush the process. Hanging wallpapers in corners should take a little time for a newbie. Work slowly to avoid making mistakes. \n--\nNow you know \nhow to put up wallpaper\n! Master these steps and you’re one step closer to becoming a professional paperhanger. \n(Yes, that’s a thing.)\n\nRead our \nwallpapering for beginners guide\n and what mistakes to look out for, \nhow to remove wallpaper\n and \nhow to wallpaper a feature wall\n.

As you learn more about \nhow to hang wallpaper\n yourself, you’ll quickly realise that the hardest bit (by far) is getting the corners to look perfect. Sadly, you can’t just push the paper into the corner and expect it to look great. Still, you can learn the techniques and approaches that professionals use for a seamless finish. It’ll be a little tricky at first - but with the right know-how, you’re up for the challenge.\nRead on for our top tips on how to wallpaper corners like a pro.

Prep

How to paint clean lines when decorating

How to prep a room for wallpapering

How to prep a room for painting

How to paint window frames

How to hang wallpaper and where to start

Tools you need to prep and paint a room

How to wallpaper corners